In the Kingdom of Heaven

When Stefano and Leonardo, my Italian friends, announced their visit to Northern Norway, I knew I wanted to honor their journey with an unforgettable experience. Living here, in this remote and stunning corner of the world, I’ve learned part of its rhythms, secrets, and soul. For this occasion, I became not just a friend but their guide, a bridge between our Mediterranean roots and my Arctic rebirth. From the moment they arrived, every step of our itinerary was carefully crafted to reveal the magic of this land I now call home.

Our adventure began in Tromsø, the largest city in Northern Norway and the perfect introduction to this realm of contrasts. The city, located 350 kilometers north of the Arctic Circle, is renowned as the Gateway to the Arctic. It sprawls across Tromsøya, an island connected to the mainland by the striking Tromsø Bridge. Tromsø has a rich history as a hub for Arctic exploration. Its museums and the Polar Institute tell stories of daring expeditions to the North Pole, while its Arctic Cathedral, a modern architectural marvel, reflects both natural beauty and spiritual solace.

The Fjellheisen cable car in Tromsø is an absolute must-see for anyone wishing to experience the magic of the Midnight Sun. Ascending to Mount Storsteinen, 421 meters above sea level, this iconic attraction offers a breathtaking vantage point over the city, its surrounding fjords, and the mountain peaks that define the Arctic landscape. The midnight sun, a surreal phenomenon for my guests, painted the city in a perpetual glow. I explained its significance and how it shaped life here, from round-the-clock summer energy to the stillness of polar nights in winter.

From Tromsø, via speedboat, we reached Harstad, and continue on a road trip south to Hadseløya and Melbu, my home away from home. Nestled between the Lofoten and Vesterålen archipelagos, Melbu is a town often overlooked by tourists but cherished by those who know it. I shared its history as an industrial and fishing village connecting the two archipelagos by ferry.

To showcase Melbu’s beauty, I took them on a hike I’d carefully chosen, a trail leading to a stunning viewpoint. As we ascended, I pointed out native flora, shared local legends, and let them feel the silence that only nature can provide. At the summit, the reward was breathtaking: the town of Melbu spread out below, and across the sea, the Lofoten Wall rose like a fortress. When a sea eagle soared overhead, I explained its significance as a symbol of freedom and power in this land. Its appearance felt like a blessing, a silent acknowledgment of the importance of their visit and the efforts made to bring me their presence.

I wanted my friends to experience not just the grandeur of the landscape but also its quieter moments. That’s why I included a visit to a fairy mountain gallery and café, Galleri Uvær. Over steaming cups of Norwegian coffee and homemade cake, we gazed at a glassy lake surrounded by grazing sheep. This place was a reflection of the slower pace of life here, a space to breathe, reflect, and connect. I explained the concept of friluftsliv, the Norwegian philosophy of outdoor living, and how it inspires people to embrace simplicity and the natural world.

At the heart of my new beginning in Vesterålen is Cecilie, my girlfriend, the inspiration behind my decision to settle here. Her warmth and connection to this land have made every challenge feel worth it. She welcomed my friends for a traditional local dinner—a heartfelt introduction to the local culture. The centerpiece of the evening was Cecilie’s elggryte, a moose stew, a dish steeped in tradition and deeply tied to the identity of this region. The moose is more than just an animal here. It’s a symbol of the wild and untamed beauty of this land, embodying both strength and grace. Spotting one of these creatures is a rare moment of awe.

From Melbu, we continued our road trip to the heart of Lofoten, renowned for its dramatic scenery, vibrant fishing villages, and cultural heritage. Henningsvær enchanted us with its colorful houses and narrow streets perched on tiny islands connected by bridges. Historically, this village has thrived as a major cod-fishing hub, and its charm is preserved in the galleries and local markets dotting the harbor.

The southern islands and Reine felt like a dream. The village is framed by the towering Reinebringen mountain, a popular hiking destination. The trail to the summit, though challenging, rewards hikers with panoramic views of the village, fjords, and surrounding islands.

In Å, the southernmost village, we explored a fishing museum that chronicled the evolution of life in this remote region. The place itself is a living open air gallery, preserving centuries-old architecture and traditions. 

Our accommodation in Sakrisøy, a restored rorbu, a fisherman’s cabin, was a highlight of our journey. These cabins, once used by seasonal fishermen, are now a testament to Norway’s blend of tradition and modern comfort. That evening, we cooked pasta using local seafood, a blend of Italian culinary passion and Norwegian bounty, symbolizing our shared cultures and the joy of coming together in this breathtaking setting.

The Viking Museum in Borg offered a glimpse into the past. Here, we explored a reconstructed chieftain’s longhouse, the largest of its kind ever discovered. The museum vividly brought to life the seafaring heritage of the Vikings, who navigated these fjords and oceans with remarkable skill and courage. Lofoten’s beaches were another revelation. White sand and turquoise waters fringed by rugged cliffs gave an almost tropical appearance to these Arctic shores. Unstad and Haukland beaches, in particular, left us awestruck. Unstad beach is one of Lofoten’s most iconic destinations. Located on the island of Vestvågøy, this beach is a global hotspot for Arctic surfing, drawing enthusiasts from around the world to ride its powerful waves. Unstad’s waters are fed by the Gulf Stream, keeping the temperature surprisingly mild despite its location above the Arctic Circle. The area is also a haven for photographers, offering incredible views of the midnight sun in summer and the northern lights in winter. Nearby, you can visit Unstad Arctic Surf, a café and surf shop where you can rent gear or simply enjoy local delicacies while soaking in the scenery. Haukland beach, also located on Vestvågøy, is celebrated as one of the most beautiful beaches in Norway. This beach is a favorite among hikers, with trails leading to panoramic viewpoints like Mannen or Veggen. Its calm waters make it a great spot for kayaking or simply enjoying a quiet moment by the sea.

Svolvær, the administrative center of Lofoten, was our final stop. This small town is a vibrant mix of modernity and tradition, with bustling docks, trendy cafés, and art galleries showcasing works inspired by Arctic landscapes. The iconic Svolværgeita, a goat-shaped mountain peak, loomed above the town, attracting climbers from around the world. We strolled through the harbor, soaking in the lively atmosphere before raising a toast with local craft beer to celebrate our unforgettable journey.

My friends boarded the bus back to Harstad/Narvik Airport, where they would catch a domestic flight to Oslo to spend a couple of days reconnecting with the rhythms of city life. Though we were saying goodbye, the memories we shared had forged a bond between us and this land.

“You made us feel like we were in the Kingdom of Heaven,” Leonardo said.

Northern Norway feels like the Kingdom of Heaven, a place where nature’s grandeur and the warmth of human connection coexist. My friends reminded me that, while I may live far from my birthplace, their presence and love are always with me. Heaven, as we discovered, is not just a destination but a feeling of belonging, a reminder that in the vastness of the world, we are never truly alone.

After returning home to Italy, Stefano sent me a message sharing his thoughts and feelings about the trip that absolutely deserves to be highlighted in this article:

"This journey is an experience that transports you to a world of extremes, where nature seems to have shaped the landscape with essential and mysterious strokes. The snow-capped mountains rise like ancient cathedrals, while the sea stretches out, deep and magnetic. And yet, between these two familiar elements—the sharp peaks of the mountains and the sea’s embrace—something is missing. The gentle transition we’re accustomed to, the stretch of land that usually bridges the coast and the mountains, is so brief here that it feels almost nonexistent, as if erased by time. This absence makes the landscape even more enigmatic. It’s as if a part of the world is hidden, leaving behind a sense of incompleteness that isn’t a void, but a mystery. The journey through the fjords becomes a meeting with the unknown—a territory that resists the familiar, that doesn’t easily reveal itself. It’s a place where time seems suspended between rock and water, like a held breath, a promise of something unseen but deeply felt in the folds of silence and in the details that evade the eye. Despite the human presence—visible in the small houses nestled along the fjords or in the quiet harbors—these places manage to retain their primal character. Every step along the journey makes you feel like a pioneer, as if you were the first to discover these lands, even though you know they’ve been inhabited and traversed for centuries. This is the power of the landscape: even in its intimacy with humankind, it maintains an aura of untamed inviolability. The journey through the fjords invites you to rediscover the world with fresh eyes, with the wonder of seeing something for the very first time. Every curve of the fjord, every vertiginous mountain, every reflection on the water tells an ancient story, but one that remains incomplete. You find yourself walking in a land that speaks of distant epochs, a place that escapes the present to show you only its extremes: the sea, deep and alive, and the mountains, eternal and majestic. Between these two boundaries lies a fragment of reality that seems hidden, perhaps buried in geological time, and which the traveler can only sense. This journey is not just a geographical route but a sensory and spiritual experience: it invites you to slow down, to perceive, to interpret. Here, every fjord and every peak seems to whisper that not everything can be seen, but everything can be felt. The journey through the fjords thus becomes a dialogue with a land that asks to be explored as if it were always the first time."